Introduction
A few nights ago, I had the pleasure of visiting Palizzi Social Club, a century-old Italian establishment in South Philly, for a post-dinner drink. To my surprise, my friend suggested trying Palizzi’s renowned dessert instead. Soon enough, we indulged in a slice of Mom’s Ricotta Cheese Pie. This delectable treat boasted a rich, crumbly texture with hints of tanginess, saltiness, and sweetness, perfectly complemented by its almond crust. Topped with an Amarena cherry, this dessert was the ideal nightcap.
The Unconventional Combination of Cheese and Sugar
The combination of cheese and sugar, where creamy richness meets sweetness, is a match made in heaven. However, it’s baffling that people responded with confusion, revulsion, and even outrage when Van Leeuwen announced their limited-edition Kraft macaroni and cheese ice cream. Hoda Kotb, co-host of a popular show, grimaced as she tasted it, claiming that it didn’t appeal to her. Others compared it to an entrance to hell.
Why does the pairing of cheese and sugar elicit such strong reactions? In reality, there’s nothing to dislike about indulging in a rich, savory ingredient transformed into a sweet after-dinner delight.
Cheese: The Unsung Hero of Desserts
Let’s consider the most well-known cheese dessert: cheesecake. Made with pounds of cream cheese, cups of sugar, and a few eggs, cheesecake is beloved by many without arousing any satanic allegations. Additionally, there are ricotta pies, cannoli, and cheese blintzes topped with fruit preserves. The list goes on, from enjoying fruit with cottage cheese for breakfast to savoring baked brie with raspberry jam at a cocktail party. During holidays, apple pie with cheddar cheese or cardamom-flavored ras malai are the go-to treats. Across cultures, cheese appears in numerous desserts because its rich and cheesy nature tastes even better with a touch of sweetness.
The Ice Cream Conundrum
Interestingly, people tend to reserve their disdain for ingredients that are oddly savory or controversial when it comes to ice cream. In the early 2000s, when scoop shops in the U.S. experimented with flavors like corn and green tea, similar doubts and confusion arose. However, ice cream, with its dairy-forward composition, serves as the perfect base for the sharp, rich flavors of cheese. By adding a savory component to potentially overwhelming sweetness, cheese strikes an exceptional balance. In the Philippines, brands like Magnolia and Selecta create cheese and ube ice cream, as well as cheese and corn ice cream, sometimes even featuring real cubes of cheese. Mexican cuisine offers recipes for queso fresco ice cream, highlighting the sharp and salty flavors of goat’s and cow’s milk. Even the American brand Cold Stone Creamery sells a cheesecake variety with cream cheese flavoring, whatever that entails.
Embrace the Unexpected: Mac and Cheese Ice Cream
It’s understandable that mac and cheese might seem misplaced in the realm of ice cream, especially if one envisions actual noodles within it (which are absent). However, it’s best not to dismiss it without trying. Just like cheesecake, ricotta pie, blintzes, and the countless other cheese-infused desserts we delight in, mac and cheese ice cream makes perfect sense once you experience it. Here are two delightful recipes to explore:
Mac and Cheese Ice Cream Recipe
Yields approximately 1 quart
Ingredients:
- 1¾ cups heavy cream
- 1¼ cup whole milk
- ½ cup sugar
- ⅓ cup light corn syrup
- ⅛ teaspoon salt
- 4 large egg yolks
- 2 packets of Kraft macaroni and cheese powder
Instructions:
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Combine heavy cream, whole milk, ¼ cup sugar, corn syrup, salt, and cheese powder in a medium saucepan. Heat over medium-high for 5 to 7 minutes, whisking frequently until the milk reaches a steaming temperature of 175 degrees or simmers.
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While the mixture heats, whisk the egg yolks and the remaining ¼ cup sugar in a medium-sized heatproof bowl until they are thoroughly combined. Keep whisking until you achieve a light-yellow mixture. To avoid clumping, perform this step just before the mixture reaches the desired temperature.
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Remove the hot cream from heat and slowly pour about a third of the mixture over the egg yolks, whisking constantly. This is the tempering stage and ensures a smooth custard texture.
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Return the yolk mixture to the saucepan and cook over medium-low heat until the temperature reaches 170 degrees or when the mixture coats the back of a spoon.
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Remove from heat immediately and place the custard bowl in an ice bath to cool it down. The initial sweetness will mellow as the mixture cools.
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Cover the custard and refrigerate until cold.
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Strain the custard through a fine-mesh sieve and transfer it to an ice cream maker. Churn until the mixture reaches a soft-serve consistency, which typically takes around 20 to 25 minutes, depending on your machine. Avoid over-churning to prevent denseness.
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Freeze until the ice cream reaches a firm consistency, ideally for 4 hours or overnight.
Herbed White Cheddar Mac and Cheese Ice Cream Recipe
Yields approximately 1 quart
Ingredients:
- 1¾ cups heavy cream
- 1¼ cups whole milk
- ½ cup sugar
- ⅓ cup light corn syrup
- ⅛ teaspoon salt
- 4 large egg yolks
- 2 packets of Annie’s Shells & White Cheddar cheese powder
- 10 sprigs fresh sage or 6 sprigs fresh rosemary or ¼ cup whole black peppercorns (optional)
Instructions:
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Combine heavy cream, whole milk, ¼ cup sugar, corn syrup, salt, cheese powder, and optional herbs or peppercorns in a medium saucepan. Heat over medium-high for 5 to 7 minutes, whisking frequently until the milk reaches a steaming temperature of 175 degrees or simmers.
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While the mixture heats, whisk the egg yolks and the remaining ¼ cup plus 2 tablespoons of sugar in a medium-sized heatproof bowl until thoroughly combined. Keep whisking until you have a light-yellow mixture. To avoid clumping, perform this step just before the mixture reaches the desired temperature.
-
Remove the hot cream from heat and slowly pour about a third of the mixture over the egg yolks, whisking constantly. This is the tempering stage and ensures a smooth custard texture.
-
Return the yolk mixture to the saucepan and cook over medium-low heat until the temperature reaches 170 degrees or when the mixture coats the back of a spoon.
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Remove from heat immediately and place the custard bowl in an ice bath, stirring to cool the mixture down.
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Cover the custard and refrigerate until cold. If the herb flavor hasn’t fully developed to your taste, you can add additional sprigs and let the mixture infuse in the fridge for an additional 12 hours.
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Strain the custard through a fine-mesh sieve and transfer it to an ice cream maker. Churn until the mixture resembles a soft-serve consistency, about 20 to 25 minutes, depending on your machine. Avoid over-churning, as it leads to denser ice cream.
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Freeze until the ice cream reaches a firm consistency, ideally for 4 hours or overnight.
Some Ice Cream-Making Tips
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Chilled Container: Before pouring the churned ice cream into a storage container, freeze a glass or metal container to prevent melting. This ensures the ice cream maintains its desired consistency and prevents it from becoming dense and hard.
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Strain the Custard: To eliminate any lumps and ensure a smooth texture during churning, strain the custard through a double-meshed sieve or a splatter screen.
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Preparation in Advance: If desired, you can make the custard base a day ahead of time and refrigerate it until ready to churn, ensuring it is properly chilled.
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Prevent Freezer Burn: To prevent freezer burn, place a piece of wax or parchment paper over the surface of the ice cream, creating a barrier between the ice cream and air.
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Follow Instructions: Always refer to your ice cream machine’s manufacturer instructions for the best results. If your machine requires a frozen bowl, make sure to freeze it overnight for efficient churning.
So, embrace the unexpected and savor the delightful fusion of mac and cheese transformed into a cool, creamy treat. Experience the wonders of these unique ice cream recipes—because, as they say, don’t knock it until you try it!
